When it is all plugged in, I get double image/horizontal lines. When I unplug right ribbon cable only, double image/horizontal lines goes away. When I unplug left ribbon cable only, the double image/horizontal lines is still there. See images for details ([I]yes, that is my car in reflection, bonus points if you figure out make and model :[/I])
Tab bonds look very good.When it is all plugged in, I get double image/horizontal lines. When I unplug right ribbon cable only, double image/horizontal lines goes away. When I unplug left ribbon cable only, the double image/horizontal lines...
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UN55B6000 with horizontal lines, and then not.
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Power Supply (COV33697901) from LG 50UH5500 (or 50UH5530) is buzzing/humming
I got this TV fully operational and all is working fine. The PSU (transformer) on the other hand is making noises that are quite audible, even with back cover on.
[URL="https://assets.shopjimmy.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/f8f28dc4a19c21aeb55ee5774693fb5d/s/h/shopjimmy-cov33697901-top.jpg"]Image of PSU courtesy of ShopJimmy[/URL].
[URL="https://youtu.be/XgF1ZdZgLzc"]Video with sound of the issue[/URL].
Any thoughts on what can be causing this?I got this TV fully operational and all is working fine. The PSU (transformer) onLast edited by Pioneerx01; 11-04-2018, 06:31 PM.
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Re: Macgyver-ing LED backlights for Sharp LC-50UB30U
I got these myself: [url]https://www.ebay.com/itm/272893652959[/url]
Search for "Universal LED Backlights" There are few versions and lengths, some are 6, 7, 8 & 10 LEDs per strip and strips vary in length.Re: Macgyver-ing LED backlights for ...7, 8 & 10 LEDs...
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Re: Macgyver-ing LED backlights for Sharp LC-50UB30U
Update Time:
I got the Chinese universal strips in main yesterday, they were shipped in PVC tube and arrived A-OK. Their design reminds me of the ones you see in Insignia and Hisense TVs. The color temperature is pretty spot on, and they are very bright. So much so that I currently have TV on lowers backlight setting and its about right. They came with adhesive tape on the back, but i still used mine as I trust it more.
Simple design and layout, you can cut them anywhere and jump the connections...
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Re: Macgyver-ing LED backlights for Sharp LC-50UB30U
Original is: 8 per strip, 2 strips per row, 4 rows total.
Based on the description the strips can be cut to shorter length. That's why I got 10 per strip to make then into 8 and shorter as well. I am worried that if I overlap, the center of the screen will be brighter than the rest. I could tape them over, but I like my solution better
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Re: Macgyver-ing LED backlights for Sharp LC-50UB30U
I actually got the 10 (I know wait) Each strip is 3" longer that the stock, so 6" overlap per row. I bought 10 per strip, and then I will cut the last two off, making the strip 8 and also shorter, so no overlap. Then its easier to "adjust" the reflector sheet as it is all in one row.
Maybe I will keep one strip per row with 9 LED, lowering the average voltage the LED chips and they may last longer.Last edited by Pioneerx01; 07-04-2018, 01:02 PM.
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Re: Macgyver-ing LED backlights for Sharp LC-50UB30U
I will try that route with hesitation. I have ordered a 10 pack of these strips and I hope they are color correct. Last time I ordered "compatible" replacement strips for another TV (40" Samsung with those angled backlights) they were purple like you would not believe....
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Re: Macgyver-ing LED backlights for Sharp LC-50UB30U
Because of the voltage. This TV has 8 LEDs per strip, 2 strips per row and 2 rows per channel. 32 LED per channel with 3V each is 96V.
I can't find another LED set that runs 8 LED per strip, 16 per row to make sure I don't overpower the LEDs. Plus there is the issue of the length, some trips are longer/shorter than others yielding uneven coverage.
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Macgyver-ing LED backlights for Sharp LC-50UB30U
I have Sharp LC-50UB30U on my table. The backlights (IC-A-VZAA50D552) are shot, over half LED chips are out. No one seems to have them in stock, past sales history looks almost empty and the prices are astronomical if you want to put them together one strip at a time.
This TV runs 2 LED channels with 32x 3V LED in series so 96V per channel. Are there any alternatives I can use to get this TV operational with some other LED strips or some other method I am not aware of?
My first thought was to use 12V LED strips from eBay (see attached) and put 8 on each channel in...
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Need help testing an OLED TV | LG 55EC9300
I have gotten my hands on my first OLED TV, cracked screen sadly. There is oh so very tiny crack in the upper right corner, barely visible. If I am correct, once the OLED screen cracks, it will not self-illuminate at all, correct me if I am wrong.
I am trying to figure out if the TVs parts are salvageable. When I turn the TV on, I hear a relay click, ~2 seconds later it clicks out. I do not get any blink error codes. I don't know if that is normal operation of the OLED TVs when they are clacked, of if there is an inherent issue.
PSU is showing good stand by voltage,...
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Repairing/Testing LED strip on LG 42GA6400 with LC420EUN(SF)(F3) panel
5/6 channels works just fine. The last one is giving me problems, it won't turn on. All the LEDs on the faulty channel are fine but the last one and I can't test it directly. Right next to it is a small yellow-ish SMD and I don't know what it is and it is either blocking the anode of the last LED or is part of it.
Any thoughts?
Thanks...
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Looking for a blow/butane torch to be used for heat shrink tubing
Up until now I have been using lighter to shrink my tubesWhile it works, it can get problematic at times. I am looking for a hand held butane blow torch that will get the job done.
I have went on amazon and bought a "cooking" torch. Well, that thing will burn the connector, wire, my hair along with the heat shrink. Flame is way too strong and big.
I am looking for a self igniting hand held torch with small flame. Also, it would be nice if the trigger would release the butane and ignite it at the same time. The one I have, I have to turn up the gas...
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Re: How to replace the LED chips that "stick out" (UN55E6150 +others)
Well, I done it, sort of.
My failed attempts included: I have covered the adjacent chips with aluminum foil to depreciate the heat. I have blasted it with heat gun from the top and all it done was melted the plastic on the chip. Did not even loosed the solders on the PCB. I tied heating it up from the back with 350C, however the PCB is aluminum, which conducts heat really well. I was keeping the heat gun on it for 5 min until I stared to notice that the top of the LED strip itself began...
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How to replace the LED chips that "stick out" (UN55E6150 +others)
I am working on one of the LED strips from UN55E6150, that has the LEDs that stick out, see attached image.
I have played around with similar LED strip some time ago with no real success.
Going at it from the top with heat gun melts the LED chip and its neighbors.
Going at it from behind does not seem to heat it up enough to melt the solder.
There is not enough room with the soldering iron to go at the solder points on the bottom of the chip.
How do I go about removing and replacing one of those?...
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Bought myself a clamp amp meter. Am I using it wrong?
Bought myself a new Tacklife CM01A Digital Clamp Meter from Amazon. First test is on the bench light I have plugged into an outlet. It has 2x 32W rated CFL tubes in it. Kill-A-Watt meter reads 120V with 0.72A, however my clamp meter only reads 0.34A on AC mode. It was zeroed out before measurement. What am I missing here?...
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