ctroxtell
Member
Last Activity: 03-12-2025, 05:59 AM
Joined: 05-05-2022
Location: Piedmont Triad, NC
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Well I picked up the 55" and 70" for a grand total of $50. The 70" main board had shorted due to a power surge/lightning strike, the 55" worked except the inputs on the main board got fried via the Dish Network box. I have maybe $100 in boards and got them both going. I knew I was taking a chance on the 82" at $125, live and learn though. -
Such a shame that all this stuff ends up in the dump, I'm hoping my 55" and 70" TU series don't follow in the same foot steps as this 82" TU series did. My 32" Vizio from 2008 still runs just like the day I bought it. Figure I'll at least pull the boards out of the unit incase I need it to repair another TV set or need some of the components for something else I'm working on.Leave a comment:
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Well doesn't look like I have to worry about it, it appears I broke the bottom corners of the screen getting the back off of it. Which is strange because I used the same method to pop it loose on my 70" just like it, just slide a plastic door panel clip removal tool in just ever so slightly to pop the panel clips. Strange thing is that after I broke the corners of the panel the tv booted up fine and stayed running, granted there is nothing displayed except several lines going across the bottom of the screen, some times it changes and the lines run from top to bottom. Well I'll pull the boards...Leave a comment:
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Investigating some more I notice when it reboots each time the standby light blinks twice and you can hear the TV click. Sometimes the startup sound will play other times it restarts before it does. Some searching has turned up issues similar where one or more of the panel clock signals have shorted and people have got the panel back up by blocking that clock signal. I will see what I can determine tomorrow when I disassemble the back.Leave a comment:
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Samsung UN82TU700DFXZA turns on and off continuously
I picked up a Samsung UN82TU700DFXZA, when plugged in I can see the backlights come on, it sounds like it makes the startup sound and then the backlights go back out and it continues this process. I don't believe that I've seen any kind of image show. Has anyone seen this happen before? -
So I got to digging and found an HVAC tech who got tired of the issues and soldered mechanical tactical microswitches onto the board. He said he's ran into at least one board that the microswitches refused to work. [url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1GOP9kIy2_s[/url] useful information though. I tried to wet the tip of my finger and touch the pad to simulate a conductor, it worked on the esc and enter keys I think but not on the up and down keys.https://So I got to digging and foun... said he's ranLeave a comment:
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Thank you for that information, as I was talking with another technician today and he was saying it was always the same thing " the up and down arrows stop working and the other two buttons never seem to fail". I thought maybe it was something to do with the board staying powered on 24/7 but it sounds like since these buttons are used more they are always the failed section. I will definitely attempt to work on the board and see if I can perhaps solder an external switch onto it since the membrane pad fails....Leave a comment:
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Carrier HK50AA063 display controller common failure help
I've got a control display for a Carrier chiller that I'm trying to understand what the common failure with these boards are. This is the board in question [URL]https://www.supplyhouse.com/Carrier-HK50AA063-Scrolling-Marquee-Display[/URL] all of them seem to develop a failure with the up and down arrow buttons on the right side of the display, the esc and enter keys I've never seen fail. Once these boards are plugged in they run 24/7, you used to have to press extremely hard with the end of the blunt screwdriver and you could still get the arrows to work but now it has completely stopped working....
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Yes, ended up needing a replacement main board. Used a BN94-00053T, TV Parts Today obviously had sent a cracked power board and bad main board.
I've got an issue with the main board for another TV for which they sent me a replacement main board as well, none of the HDMI ports recognize what is plugged into them, name wise. They show up as "Unknown", I can name them but as soon as I unplug them they revert.Leave a comment:
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Just wanted to do a final update, the boards were bad. Maybe I will attempt to repair them, if so I will post updates.Leave a comment:
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The TV will not even turn on, I have no standby light. I found the service manual for the TV and it says "
If LED is OFF
Check LED 1.7Vdc (pin 14 ) and VCC for 5Vdc (pin 4 )
9
→
If missing suspect Function Assy/Cable/Main board"
If I measure from pin 4 to the TV frame, I get 5V, but from pin 14 to the frame, I have nothing. I just wanted to ensure the way I was checking the surrounding capacitors was correct. I've requested a replacement and am waiting to hear back from TV Parts Today.Leave a comment:
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The only one that list the WXZA model is [url]https://www.shopjimmy.com/samsung-un75tu7000fxza-700dfxza-complete-led-tv-repair-parts-kit-version-be11/[/url] and it shows that "
Manufacturer Part Number 1:
Samsung BN94-00053T|Samsung BN94-16115X|Samsung BN94-17775A|Samsung BN94-17775V
So it is a compatible board from my understanding.https://The only one that list the W...00053T|SamsungLeave a comment:
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Samsung UN70tu7000wxza no standby light, do I have bad capacitors?
I picked up a 70" Samsung UN70TU7000WXZA. The original owner said they were watching it when the power surged and knocked it out. I pulled the back off the TV and disconnected the main board from the power board, and the LED backlight came on, which I was told meant the power board was good. When everything is plugged in the standby light will not come on, looking at the main board BN94-17775A with a thermal imaging gun I can see one of the chips labeled 3202 is 251 degrees F just sitting idle. I found a replacement board, BN94-16115X; this board has the same symptoms, except it is a different... -
Fixed the bad solder job, but the PC still was acting the same. I got the system up long enough to notice something. I noticed things like my network devices saying they weren't found or were missing. I realized something must have corrupted the Windows install. I reinstalled Windows, and now the computer runs flawlessly. I don't think I've ever seen an instance where the software has caused the system to reboot, and it appears to be a hardware issue. Learn something new every day.Leave a comment:
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Opened the PSU up, and found an MOSFET(4800AGM) that appears to have seen better days. Looks like two of the legs are bridged(could of been designed that way?) and one leg appears like the connection is broke. Almost like something was spilled on that section.Leave a comment:
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No, I don't have another power supply on hand. The bios is reporting
CPU VCore 1.164V
CPU VRIN 1.068V
DRAM Channel A/B 1.188V
+3.3 V 3.344V
+5V 5.070V
+12V 12.096V
CPU VAXG 0.012V
The PC does not seem to have any issue staying running in BIOS, but once I boot past it into Windows I will sometimes get 30 seconds to 2 minutes before it reboots. Do you think it could still be a possible power supply issue? Thanks for the help!
EDIT: Wow, I just realized how old my power supply is. It's a Corsair TX750w, it was released October...Leave a comment:
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Okay, well, it's a year later, and I've decided to try to look back over this board. I attempted to start the system back up and got a C0 error on the LCD display. It appears to hit the desktop for login and then restarts, if I enter into the BIOS the system does not seem to have an issue to keep running, but if I let it boot past this it will hit the desktop and typically it will reboot within ~30 seconds of hitting Windows desktop (last boot was an exception as it lasted for several minutes). I know the board is old, but I want to dive into this and understand what caused this failure. Does...Leave a comment:
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Well something else just happened. Was using the PC and it just went off, no signs of booting. Pushing the CMOS reset button causes the LEDs to light up for a split second and then goes back off. Removing power and applying power the display to light up on the board and it got to 32, 35, 45 and went dark. after the LEDs and the code display goes off it won't light up again till I remove power or hit CMOS reset. Wondering if this is the end of the road for her this time...Last edited by ctroxtell; 12-06-2023, 09:57 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: It works!
Been messing with computers for 20+ years, never seen this happen. Are you saying the bios could be corrupt? I'll reflash it and see what I get. I had to disconnect everything for some cable management and noticed when I plugged it back in it went to acting up again, had to hit the CMOS reset. Thanks for the information and insight....Leave a comment:
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It works!
Started messing with my computer again, since everything would start up I hit the CMOS reset and the reset switch next to it. The post display lit back up and the computer booted as if nothing had happened. So I'm not sure what in the world caused this issue.Leave a comment:
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