Hi all,
i got a A1708 with water damage. I cleaned everything and the board started normal. But the next day i got 20v but no booting. Thermal cam showed over 160c (never had a chip getting this burning hot before) in U2800 and some shorts on the caps around it. After removal shortages were gone and i installed a donor U2800 which worked before.
Sadly now the device stays at 5v, 0,4a and 1,9w and i don't find the problem.USB ports worked fine before....
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MacBook Pro A1708 pink screen and flickering
Hi all,
a friend brought me his A1708. Apple store told him that the screen needs to be replaced for 400 € but they didn't even open it to check anything.
Since this model is not known for flexgate issues is there anything else i can check or is this also a faulty display flex?
Btw external screen works fine.
[ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"medium","data-attachmentid":3589450}[/ATTACH]...
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Final Update, i gave the PD chip TPS65993 a reflow and now i get 5V and 0,3A and can meassure 5V in the board. But the chip ist getting hot 50C and doesn't switch voltage so i guess it's my problem.
I can't find any replacement and only found a TPS65994A which seems similar. Anybody has an idea what i can try?
Could a full reball help in this case?
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Cap was changed (sorry made a mistake in my post replaced it with the same J8) but still only getting 5V with minimal ampere jumps.
Can this be a faulty Power IC or anything else i can look for? There are no shorts on the board and mosfets also look fine....
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MSI Claw A7 no power
Hi all,
i got a MSI Claw "consoles" which drawed 5v without doing anything else. I took the board out and found the blown up cap from the picture.
Can anybody help me to id it? I think i saw some with the J7 reading on a MacBook A1466 donor board.
Ist there anything else i should look for which possible damages?...
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One more thing here L7210 and L7230 show constant 0,84v without any drop. As a last effort can reflowing the CPU help? I had other Macbooks where this helped in this case. Or can the fault be somewhere else?
Also i have donor boards with same CPU and SSD but never tried replacing them.
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Update, its not U7100. Again heating the CPU with flux helped to make the MacBook run for 30 minutes until it freezed and stopped working.
Is it possible to use more heat to do a reflow? Only have done this to older Mac Pro 2012. I have also a small heating plate.
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Hello,
before i start a new thread i ask here because i want to empty my workbench. Had the same problem and CPU core voltage was at constant 0,96V.
I reflowed U7100 and put flux under the CPU at 200c hot air. Later the MacBook came back to life with question mark folder. Since the SSD was empty i wanted to install iOS today. MacBook started to boot with fanspin but stopped after some time and i got my 0,96v again without drop.
Any ideas what to do or should i repeat my steps and take U7100 off and clean the pads instead of only reflowing?
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I checked PPVCORE_S0_CPU_PH1 and PH2 both with low resistance at around 12 Ohms.
So no dead CPU right?
Trying DFU again I got the following message:
Unexpected device state 'BootedOS' expected 'DFU' (Probably caused by a transient USB layer issue causing missing or duplicate events) [com.apple.MobileDevice.MobileRestore – 0xFB0 (4016)]
Tried DFU again and it closed without any message and got the closed lock symbol. In this state any action gave me this message with high fan spin.
Can't restore device in this state - please reboot into Recovery or DFU [com.apple.MobileDevice.MobileRestore...
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A1932 DFU mode error, high fan spin or running but being dead?!?
Hi all,
i have a A1932 which entered DFU mode but stopped with an error. For me it looked like a restart but no screen and DFU stopped. I tried a different case with good battery and trackpad but same results.
Sometimes I get a high fan spin with 20v, 2,4a and 12-40w but no screen. The whole board looks clean and I cannot find any corrosion or shorts...
Thermal cam shows CPU at 70-75c so can a defective CPU be the problem or is there anything else I can look for?...
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Restore solder pads for SMC on MacBook A1466
Hi all,
i got a A1466 logic board for spare parts but it looks like the SMC ist bad. I got several spares but somehow i was too fast while removing it and ripped some pads off. You can see the damage attached.
Just for experience i would like to restore the lost pads but before i start (haven't done this before) do you have some hints or tutorials how to do it?
As written i want to improve skills so it doesnt matter if it takes longer.1 Photo
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Display is working! I had to change the fuse and protection diode and now everything is fine.
[ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"small","data-attachmentid":3522503}[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"small","data-attachmentid":3522502}[/ATTACH]Display is working! I had to change the fuse and protection diode and now everything is fine.
[ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"small","data-attachmentid":3522503}[/ATTACH]...
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Water damage is a b.... I took my pick and inspected the whole board again and found three parts with corosion under the solder joints but all only had it on one side.
MacBook is running now but i got two more problems. The lid sensor is not working and since i installed a new speaker and audio board it must be something at the logicboard and the MacBook seems slow....1 Photo
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I changed the cable and speaker with lid sensor and the MacBook came back to live and i was able to get into Internet recovery before it started to go crazy again. After rebooting voltage went to 20v i got a fan spin and A and W dropped to 0. I waited some time, tried again and it started to the flasing folder Icon. But this should be normal since i didnt reinstall the system.
So now i think i have to find a temporary? short on the board or a chip which is acting strange. Maybe any ideas where to start or is measuring any option here?
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The spot was only some dirt and the i`m not able to push it any deeper. Tried it for several times now and the next step would be force but i don't think that it would help.
But problems with the trackpad seem to be solved after taking out the board connector and cleaning again.
One more thing i saw is the non working lid sensor which is causing problems so maybe i will replace the speaker and get a new keyboard / trackpad cable since they are not expensive.
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Okay, too late to edit my former post. I had one small spot a the trackpad which i cleaned and now it's working fine but the keyboard is still without any reaction. The strange thing about this is that i used it to put the Mac into DFU mode yesterday and into restore today.
Only thing i did was cleaning the connector and checking the cable for any damages.
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I tried it and the Macbook worked normal for some minutes. Then it went back to slow self moving cursor and also the keyboard is not reacting to anything. Can this be a fault on the board or do i have to take a closer look at the trackpad?
Cables and connectors look fine.
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