Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

User Profile

Collapse

Profile Sidebar

Collapse
Avatar
BigPete
Senior Member
Last Activity: 12-07-2024, 06:14 PM
Joined: 07-14-2012
Location: Waikato
  •  
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
  • Source
Clear All
new posts

  • Just a follow up on this.
    I replaced IC205 with a new 74HCT244PW chip.
    I also replaced IC205 and IC199 as they were the same chip and I bought a pack of 5 so thought what the hell.
    I put it back together and the display fired right up.
    I left it overnight, turned it on the following morning and the display fired right up again, it's been going fine ever since.
    In the mean time I replaced virtually all the capacitors on the DSP board.
    Aside from the 74HCT244PW chips that were replaced, and aside from the parts that were unnecessarily replaced, I also replaced...
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • As the amplifier display starts working as the amplifier heats up I decided to apply heat to the area IC205 is before turning it on. Pre heating it turned the display on first crack. It's not to say it is IC205, but something in that area at least. I've ordered replacement MC74HC244ADW chips and will swap them out and report back.
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • IC101 = 11V in - 5.6V out
    IC102 = 5.6V in - 3.96V out
    IC103 = 5V in - 3.3V out
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • To add information to my above reply.
    The voltages are quite messed up.
    RST is 5V regardless of whether the display is working or not.
    CE is 0v whether the display is working or not.
    CLK has 5v when pure audio is pushed, when pushed again 4.6, then when the display is actually working 100% it's just mv's rising quickly to 100's mv's with key presses.
    DATA can be 5V then 0v when pure audio is pressed.
    When the display is working 100% it's voltages are like CLK.
    Before the display is 100% CLK and DATA can be 2.8v, 5v, back to 600mv then 300mv just based...
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • Hi,
    Thanks for the reply.
    I do have a scope, but it's packed away as we're moving in a few weeks.
    RST does have 5 volts.
    CE has 0V
    CLK sometimes has 100mv otherwise nothing
    DATA has 5 volts sometimes.
    I'll double check though, I've been testing those resistors on the Front PCB trying to work out a pattern.
    The pins on the Main IC 201 are a bit hard to reach.
    It may not be the CE pin as the display works regardless of what the voltage on the resistor is.

    When I turn it on after a long period of it being off the display won't...
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • Replacing IC301 - LC75721E didn't work. I'm now going to replace IC205, the Logic Gate. I don't believe there's anything wrong with the voltages on the Front PCB. My theory now is that the CE (chip enable) pin that goes through IC205 may not be switching on IC301, due to IC205 being faulty. As the Data and Clock also go through IC205, it may be the reason the display is freezing when it is on. I may replace IC199 and IC206 as well at the same time. Only a guess though.
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • Intermittent display on Sherwood Newcastle R-965 Receiver

    Hi all,

    I'm working on a Sherwood R-965 at the moment. It came in with relays clicking constantly and also going into protect mode.
    I've re-soldered a lot of dry joints and replaced quite a few capacitors and now it works, but I still have one problem I haven't solved and would like some opinions.
    The vacuum display is quite intermittent. Sometimes it won't turn on, sometimes it will turn on but the characters, numbers and letters are frozen on, regardless of which buttons are pushed. And sometimes it works flawlessly. If the display doesn't turn on initially, restarting...
    See more | Go to post

  • Re: Eeprom dump thread!

    LG 60PB6600 Bin

    IC100
    24C256
    NZ version...
    See more | Go to post
    Last edited by BigPete; 04-07-2023, 10:36 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Re: Samsung BN44-00516A no 5v Stby

    Ok. I'll check that out. Thanks.
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • Re: Samsung BN44-00516A no 5v Stby

    Thank you for that R J.
    NT801S was open.
    I've now replaced it and the TV is back up and running.
    Thank you again.
    Cheers.
    Pete.
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • Re: Samsung BN44-00516A no 5v Stby

    There's no ICX801. There's no error code. There's no power going to the main board to drive an error code.
    Is ICX801 the same as US801? It's in the same vicinity as CS825 and QS804. US801 is a 8pin IC.
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • Samsung BN44-00516A no 5v Stby

    So I've done a lot of searching trying to figure this one out. I've replaced the usual faulty components on this board.
    I've repaired a few of these boards already but never had this issue.
    There's no 5v Stby or PS_ON voltage.
    There's no voltage at ICP801.
    I figure the standby circuit comes from the rectified circuit supplied through the resisters and diodes. Then goes to some Zener diodes and transistors to diode DM832, where the voltage output stops.
    From there the circuit goes down to the optocouplers.
    I swapped ICP801 and a few other bits and pieces with...
    See more | Go to post
    Last edited by BigPete; 07-29-2022, 10:42 PM.

  • Re: Milwaukee M12 M18 charger repair

    They were older models going by the dust in them.
    They regularly come up on the local buy and sell sites. All the ones I've repaired have had the U1 chip fail, except for one, which was a faulty plug, and I ended up replacing the U1 IC first thinking it was that.
    It could be a similar issue similar to the C4 cap in Yamaha amps.
    On these two chargers, the cap was out of spec and the resistor open. I replaced the Diode just to be safe.
    It'll be just another thing to check.
    See more | Go to post
    Last edited by BigPete; 10-27-2021, 12:33 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Milwaukee M12 M18 charger repair

    Thought to post up a repair I recently did on two of these chargers.
    After replacing U1, TOP256EN, which seems to be a common failure and one I've done multiple times, these two ICs blew again, not instantly, but upon removing and reinserting the battery.
    What I found was the snubber circuit had failed.
    So after replacing U1 again, along with a resistor, polyester cap and a diode, all was well.
    The parts and locations:
    Replaced U1 - TOP256EN
    Replaced D2 - 600V 1A Diode
    Replaced C5 - 630V 4.7nF Polyester Cap
    Replaced R12 - 68khm 2W resistor
    ...
    See more | Go to post
    Last edited by BigPete; 10-26-2021, 08:47 PM. Reason: Spelling mistake

  • Re: Panasonic TC-P50X5 no power no red light

    Just in case this helps someone, I bought a TH-P42X50 with the same issue. Swapped out U203 with a NCP1271B, as that's what I could get at the time, but still didn't power up. Turns out D308 was shorted as well. It's a SS320 diode.
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • Re: LG 60 Plasma missing 15V Z-SUS

    [url]https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=69738[/url]Re: LG 60 Plasma missing 15V Z-SUS<b...?t=69738[/url]
    See more | Go to post
    Last edited by BigPete; 12-25-2020, 04:07 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Re: Need Help Repairing 60" Lg PN5700 Plasma tv

    Picked up a 60PN6500 recently with the same issue.
    There was only 4V on the 15V line.

    Y-SUS board number: EAX64789501
    Z-SUS board number: EAX64789601

    I replaced the following components on the Y-SUS to get it back up and running:

    D509 - K8A60DA - Shorted
    D603 - ES1C - Shorted
    R251 - 2.2 Ohm resistor - Open

    I also soldered some possible dry joints. I didn't put them under a magnifying glass to confirm it, but felt it needed doing.
    See more | Go to post
    Last edited by BigPete; 12-25-2020, 04:08 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Re: Panasonic TX-P50UT30B 6 blink error

    I never noticed it lighting during the multiple tests.
    I only found it because I was testing the whole SOS6 circuit in diode test mode.
    Looking back Tom did mention in one of the posts to see if it was lighting briefly, but I was focused on all the common faults that I didn't even think to check.
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • Re: Panasonic TX-P50UT30B 6 blink error

    Just fixed this same model TV.
    I thought I would post up what I found for other people.
    TV had no blink code at all. Just a solid green light and no panel discharge.
    The 30F131 transistrors on the SC board were shorted only.
    Replaced them, now I get a 6 B blink error code.
    Replaced both DG302 transistors and a hole heap of the small 5 and 8 pin ICs and transistors. Everything that came up in a search, still no go.
    Turned out to be the green LED D583.
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • Re: Panasonic 12 blink repair on TH-P46S10

    Hi,
    Sounds similar to my problem only my TV wouldn't turn on what so ever.
    With the TV trying to start, the outside pins were over 20v on Q355. The inside pin was low.
    It's a P channel mosfet. Yours could be less leaky than mine was.
    Be careful while testing it.
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:

No activity results to display
Show More
Working...
X