I have a Panasonic Lumix GH5 that I replaced the screen panel on. Attached is a photo of the new screen bought off Ebay and sent from China. First is with the lens off and camera cap on, and the second is with the lens on. The problem is there are vertical bands on the sides, fuzzy electric noise, and the image flickers. The camera also has a EVF, and the image there is tack sharp.
Seller says it is most likely a circuit on the Main Board, but my experience is this type of issue is usually a cable or bad display. I have cleaned all the cables and inserted them under my scope....
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
User Profile
Collapse
-
-
Working on a GH5. Similar part with same blown fuse. I caused it by leaving battery in while taking out another part that was bad. I used the stack method to repair the blown "O" fuse as I didn't want to risk melting the screen. I don't think there was a cap there. If you dig you can find the schematic or look for the part on Ebay and check.
I know this is old, but I bumped into it while checking on my issue. The "O" fuse is a common Panasonic part - on their cameras they of course use their own parts. Makes it easy.
-
Thanks both of you. I think I have enough to narrow the search.
Leave a comment:
-
Thank you - I searched the part and reviewed the data sheet. I cannot find the part at any of my normal sources - or anywhere for that matter. I am not too sharp here, but it appears a Toshiba TC7SU04F may be an equivalent. I asked Bing AI and it puked out nonsense and an answer of "no". Any thoughts?
Leave a comment:
-
What is this SMD marked E6H
I am trouble shooting a Celestron Hand Controller and do not know what this part is. It appears to be marked E6H -located to Right of O chip under U12. Any ideas?1 Photo
-
Re: An old dinosaur bench top power supply - help needed
Well the parts arrived from China and are now installed into the modified unit.
Attached are the photos - First is from the Top View displaying the incredible complexity of the modification. It was rather straight forward and I followed the advice given on how to keep the analog needle meter. I did pull the LED off the board and ran a jumper wire to the front panel.
The second photo shows the front view. It was just a matter of using a drill, Dremmel tool and file to make the modifications to...
Leave a comment:
-
What is the difference in these two chips?
Need to know if I can swap a LS166A where a LS116 was originally used.
Here are the two data sheets:
[url]https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/d9e30e618ba98403e89cf4155c3f6a59.pdf[/url]
[url]https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/b52d291dfc3c0da9752ed902a79082ff.pdf[/url]
Am I right in thinking they are interchangeable and the "A" is the latest model?
I have asked the people at DigiKey and they didn't know and I have sent an email to LSI and they never responded.
Application is for motor control on...
-
Re: Identify Diode Canon EOS M50
Man I am not happy. I spent an hour working on my message and was timed out.
Summary - I think it is a regulator of some type.
I think there are three pins, one in the middle from the trace going down.
Does the camera charge through the camera or does it have a separate charger? What is the problem with the camera? What happens when you supply power to the battery connector direct?
I think you would be best served moving this to the power supply forum if the circuit is for charging which is what...
Leave a comment:
-
Re: Celestron Telescope Motor Controller SMD Cap ID help
I have done some more testing - so here is the update. Attached is a capture of the relevant schematic portion. Testing performed was with all parts soldered on the board.
I tested the Diodes D1, D2, D3 and D4. D1 failed so I changed it out. The replacement D1 still fails while on the board. The removed D1 tested fine off the board. All Diodes show some leakage when my VOM Diode checker is used, but D1 beeps.
I tested R2 and R3: R2, which is tied to D1 and D2 reads 2.05K ohms on the board (should...
Leave a comment:
-
Re: Celestron Telescope Motor Controller SMD Cap ID help
stj - under the stickers lie two PIC16F876s. I have replaced them both and flashed them with firmware. So I replaced the following: C1, C2, U5, U11, U2 and U7. (See Post #1 for schematic and board photo) Still no love.
When I plug in the hand set controller it does not see the Motor Board. When I try through the Serial Port of the Serial Board it does not see the "Scope" (see picture and schematic in Post 3). So I have a communication problem.
Only clue I have: I switched programmers from...
Leave a comment:
-
Re: Identify Diode Canon EOS M50
[url]https://html.alldatasheet.com/html-pdf/575793/ROHM/EMD62/94/1/EMD62.html[/url]
Does this help?
You should post some better pictures, including the front and back of the board.
I have searched for sometime on the RO50 DZ8N - appears to come up as a resistor - maybe the DZ8N is some further specifications. If so then it should be .05 ohms.Re: Identify Diode Canon EOS M50<br ...is help?<br />
Leave a comment:
-
Re: An old dinosaur bench top power supply - help needed
The power supply is from a company that is no longer in business. It was founded in 1983 so the unit is no older than 38 years. Like in the title - an old dinosaur. As the picture shows the design is simple and primitive. I must have bought in 20 years ago at a garage sale - never worked. Based on the posts it appears it is of a poor design heat sink wise.
After looking up the price of a replacement 7805 and seeing how rickety the wires and pc board is I opted to go with the $9.00 eBay solution.
I...
Leave a comment:
-
Re: An old dinosaur bench top power supply - help needed
RJ - I performed the test. VOM negative to heatsink and VOM positive to negative leg of the gray vertical 100uf 50v cap. As I turned the pot the resistance would increase and decrease.
I did the same for the really big 25000MFD cap and the resistance would vary, but not in a linear fashion.
Leave a comment:
-
Re: An old dinosaur bench top power supply - help needed
Would I be able to use this eBay board? [url]https://www.ebay.com/itm/LM317-Step-down-Power-Module-Adjustable-DC-Regulator-Power-Supply-Board/191944815983?hash=item2cb0cd756f:g:aN4AAOSw-itXrY-G[/url]
Take out the existing board, mount the eBay board to align with the existing pot control, cut a hole for the LED Voltage display, remove onboard LED power light and run jumper wires to the panel and keep the analog scale and wire it somehow?
Turn the dinosaur into something modern, but keep the old school...
Leave a comment:
-
Re: An old dinosaur bench top power supply - help needed
Thanks redwire and thanks again RJ.
RJ - The regulator reads about 30V on one leg and nothing on the other, regardless of where the pot is set. So the 7805 is dead.
The browned resistor is for an LED and is working.
I will look into the LM317 conversion - Redwire I assume you are talking a regulator with three legs vs this current through the board 2 leg setup. Any recommendation of wire gauge? I figure I could pull the 7805 and solder jumper wires in the existing holes and run it to...
Leave a comment:
No activity results to display
Show More
Leave a comment: