Remove the capacitor and if the mosfet is shorted, remove it too then probe the others for the same thing.
If it's in parallel to other MOSFETS then replace with the same part number, if not one with equivalent spec, max reverse voltage and current is enough.
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Biruslapio
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Now you've done it.
Rule 1 of plasmas is always ground all sustain and anything directly linked to the panel.
Steps are:
1. check Y-sus for shorted transistors, if there are, their gate resistor + driver. Diodes and the 2W resistors especially 10, 1 and 2.2 OHMs.
2. check the Z-sus for the same things.
3. test buffer boards panel output pins.
4. logic board for blinking LED.
5. if nothing yet, isolate the main board and do auto_gen test.
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If there was a sound it may have been one of the small blue 1/2kv capacitors blowing up, they're covered in glue and can look fine even after popping, the transistors + their controller on the underside of the board near them may be damaged....
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Update, after leaving it off until today, the LCD has recovered a bit, it's much better than what it was before, there's still an horizontal line, no getting rid of that.
I kind of want to experiment more with the tape to get rid of these horizontal lines pattern that happens after shutting clock and other voltage signals to one side of the panel, the thing is if I untape the wrong pin it will go into meltdown again, measuring OHMs there's nothing shorted or close to that....
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Samsung's AU series "high quality" panel internally melting
I got this 55 inch AU7X00 TV, it was rebooting and showed no image only a blink of the backlights.
I assumed it was either panel or motherboard. Turns out it was the panel, and after applying some tape on the ribbon cable that goes to the left side of the screen, the TV turned on with image, then I suddenly noticed a dark spot and the pixels were turning black on the left edge, I was sad and thought I smashed the screen somewhere, found nothing visually, it looked in perfect condition and if it was there before it would've been noticeable while I was inspecting the TV the first time....
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Philips 50 Inch 6654 4k display fault
Hi, this TV is from the PUG series, had no image, upon using tape to cover the pins on the right side(from the back), it displays only vertical bands that fade away slowly, classic problem with the horizontal part.
There is no short I could find on the panel, when disconnecting any major voltage such as VGH, the T-Con stops pulling down all voltages and I can measure what they should be.
I tried to use an external power supply in place of VGH, as soon as I turned on the tv displayed proper image and then instantly started to fade, T-Con shut down all voltages, it is sensing...
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All the TVs I've seen with this dark yellow issue had panels with side tabs, required peeling off the tabs to get better, image doesn't come back 100% but it's better than before.
Follow as above message #4, first try to isolate the problematic side with tape, if nothing, check for the tabs.
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We'll never get works of art like Panasonic plasmas again, those had no tapes, wire guides everywhere and very complex and secure construction, the price has gone down significantly from what it was 10~20 years ago.
Now we get psu+main in some cheap unknown construction, no service manual, on the cheaper TVs I had the "pleasure" of working with, it had the chassi entirely made of plastic and the white reflector sheet for the LEDs was secured with 3 strands of double-sided tape on left, center and right, the whole TV flexed like a piece of cardboard.Last edited by Biruslapio; 03-05-2024, 01:32 AM.
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the EYE
Seems like a religious symbol.
Panel is visibly cracked, nothing to be done other than to use it while it lasts and strip for parts.
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????
About the tv:
I would like to see the video properly, maybe try re-encoding.
The panel contacts must be clean and properly attached to the X-main, sometimes they can go under the connector but the tv shouldn't work like that.
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Maybe, it's 64 inch.
Some information is lacking, what else other than the 3BR and the other two mosfets was checked.
Are all components on the backside near where the 3BR was soldered fine?
No ceramic cap exploded?
Was a power up test without the main board done with the other boards connected?
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